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Author Topic:   building your own castle
duncan
Senior Member
posted 01-02-99 05:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for duncan   Click Here to Email duncan     Edit/Delete Message
Greetings
I thought I'd bore you a little about a fake castle in Muskogee, Okla. It started as a large metal prefab then they added a concrete block facade that makes it look "authentic"
the towers are empty which makes for alot of
wasted space, but over all the visal impact
is not to bad.
As for my self, if all goes well, I'll start construction some time this year.
Our castle will be a D keep with a domestic range, and what would have been the larger bailey will be a roofed work area for my metal crafts.
The keep will be two stories, the first will house the master suite and the second will be devoted to a studio for my wifes spinning and weaving arts.
The kitchen, pantry, dining, and meeting hall, will be on the ground floor of the domestic range which will be 2 storys with store rooms in the basement. The 1st floor wll have the other liveing areas and bedrooms with baths.
Thanks for listening, I wish every one the best at obtaining their dreams. Duncan

[This message has been edited by duncan (edited 04-25-2002).]

Les
Member
posted 01-02-99 09:41 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Les   Click Here to Email Les     Edit/Delete Message
I wish you the best of Luck

Les

Gothic Builder
Senior Member
posted 01-08-99 03:14 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Gothic Builder   Click Here to Email Gothic Builder     Edit/Delete Message
Well good luck on your dream sounds very interesting. As for myself I'm incaseing my house in stone and block. The tower I plan on starting I hope in the spring or early summer. Gothic Builder

tord
Member
posted 01-11-99 02:08 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for tord   Click Here to Email tord     Edit/Delete Message
Hi,

I'm too trying to figure out how to build
as much as possible myself, to reduce cost.

First of all, I'm only interrested in a
medeval _appearance_. In construction, I'm
going to cheat.

My current approach is to build a steel
armored concreet frame of pillars. These
will be the bearing construction. The heavy
wooden beams that support the second floor
will rest on these. The exterior walls will
be a thin shell of bricks or some light-
weight stone. Inside of that, standard
insulation. I've not desided on the interior
walls. Someone suggested white washed walls
in combinatin with plaster to fake a stone
surface. Maybe. What are your plans?

The overall plan is to fairly quick rise the
exterior walls and the roof. Then finish
a bathroom, kitchen and one room. The
remaining rooms, I'll finish in a slower
pace. This is a life-time project.

Gothic Builder
Senior Member
posted 01-11-99 06:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Gothic Builder   Click Here to Email Gothic Builder     Edit/Delete Message
Hello Tord! Well reading over your post you have some very good ideas. The reinforced pillers are a good way to make for a strong info structure. Kind of like a flying buttress to keep the weight off the out side walls. They should stand for a long time. The walls Hmmmmmm maybe stuco, sawmill cut lumber for say a old rustic look on the inside. But like you said a lot of hard work and a lifetime to do it. Keep up the good work and good luck. Gothic Builder

Helen
Senior Member
posted 03-11-99 02:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Helen   Click Here to Email Helen     Edit/Delete Message
We're "cheating", too, mainly because there is just no way we could afford to bring in the stone our site doesn't have to build a real totally stone castle.

We're in Alaska (hi, tejrick; nice to see you again) and will be using, we think now, bagged earth, cob construction, and strawbales, too. (We've been looking at a LOT of alternative construction books and web sites!)

We will be starting a tower this spring to experiment with the construction techniques. Hopefully, by next fall, we will have a winter-proof residence to work from the following years.

We have a web site with pictures, descriptions, plans, a bibliography... etc.:
http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Hollow/7231/castle.html
I'd LOVE to see pictures of the places you all are building!

As to the interior walls of the castles, my understanding is that they plastered them, at least in the fancier, more lived-in rooms. And put up a lot of tapestries. Those rock walls are/were legendarily cold and damp! Which is one reason we have been looking at materials besides stone, especially in the residential areas.

------------------
icq#5453491
http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Hollow/7231

duncan
Senior Member
posted 03-11-99 06:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for duncan   Click Here to Email duncan     Edit/Delete Message
Have you looked into makeing S.I.P.s, there R value can be as high as 45 or greater and are
used in the Artic.
As to the coldness of stone,I've not noticed.
When the walls are built well with a right
thickness it seems to cut down on the chill coming off the rock. But,I've never been in a
rock inclosed area in Alaska either. :^}brrr.
My girlfriend has done countless hours of
research in the art of weaving, she's found
they used alot of different wall hangings, from silk to brocade cloth and many other weaves. I will be droping by your sight, I'm
interested in your building concepts.

Helen
Senior Member
posted 03-14-99 09:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Helen   Click Here to Email Helen     Edit/Delete Message
Duncan, please pardon my ignorance, but what is "S.I.P."?

(And thanks for dropping by the site!)

Helen

Helen
Senior Member
posted 03-14-99 11:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Helen   Click Here to Email Helen     Edit/Delete Message
Duncan, do you have email? (I wanted to ask about your gf's weaving research. One of the other projects I'm involved in is growing fiber flax.)

duncan
Senior Member
posted 03-15-99 04:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for duncan   Click Here to Email duncan     Edit/Delete Message
Hi Helen
That was no ones ignorance, my fault for being in a hurry, sorry.
Structural Insulated Panels are made by sandwiching hard styafoam between two pieces of plywood. There put where stud walls can be used or on the rafters. Their very easy too make, cost is low, and their very strong.
I'll email you about the flax.

[This message has been edited by duncan (edited 10-03-2000).]

Gothic Builder
Senior Member
posted 03-19-99 12:13 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Gothic Builder   Click Here to Email Gothic Builder     Edit/Delete Message
Just a up date, two more gargoyles at there new post. Then another 26 ton of stone on its way to finish up the fence will be here soon that is if the ground dry's out here in a week. Then the tower need help on the thickness that it will need to be at 40ft.? It's Demensions on the inside are 15ft.by 15 foundation is in place at 4ft. wide. Hay nice to hear from you again Helen this thing crashed and I had lost your info e-mail glad to see things are shaping up.

Glen
Member
posted 03-19-99 10:35 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Glen   Click Here to Email Glen     Edit/Delete Message
I am planning on building a castle of my own, and I am projecting a start date of 10 years hence. This is for $$$ purposes, however I would like to start gathering information now. 10 years from now I should have significant funding for the project, yet do not wish to spend an overly astronomical amount. I am not interesting in building a 100% stone construction - rather, a stone facsade-type similar to how one would build a brick home, although I would like interanl stone walls in some areas of the home. But architecturally, I am looking for a true castle structure (i.e., wall walks, towers, multi-levels, and a "dungeon" of sorts).

I am looking for any information regarding where to obtain the appropriate stone for construction, as wel as who might be able to pull off such a construction and do it RIGHT.
In addition, I am interested in locating stone masons to scuplt some of the stones on the exterior and interior, as well as some other custom stone work.

Any help pointing me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. This is basically my first effort in the long task ahead of me.

Thanks be to any who are so kind as to help.

Glen

duncan
Senior Member
posted 03-21-99 02:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for duncan   Click Here to Email duncan     Edit/Delete Message
Glen
You might look into Timber framing for the inner walls combined with load bearing rock walls. The timber framing is quite strong by it self. The stone Masons union in your area should know who could do the best work and what stone is the cheapest in your state. It's only a place to start looking.In your 10 years alot of things will change, I wish you the best of luck.

Hammer
Member
posted 04-12-99 01:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hammer     Edit/Delete Message
Hi,just dropped by this forum and thought Id put in my 2 cents.I have a piece of land that I would like to build a castle (home) on. so far my plan is to build a Keep on the highest point of a rocky knob, with an attached carragehouse and living area. the constuction technique I will use will be steel reinforced sprayed in place concrete. I also hope to construct a curtain wall around this structure and the courtyard.The living area will be insulated with sprayed on polyurathane foam with a sprayed on plaster trowled over the surface.The overall appearence of the sprayed concrete after trowling is slightly rustic. this will result in a fairly fast structure that is very livable.(round keep will be about 40'h by 28'w).Just a thought for those who were unfamiliar with this type of const.It may save you a lot of time and energy,In the long run, especially when building large buildings with limited manpower and time.Well best wishes to all in your endevors.

DreamWarrior
Senior Member
posted 05-28-99 03:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for DreamWarrior   Click Here to Email DreamWarrior     Edit/Delete Message
Thanks everyone for all of the great ideas! I just found this site the other day and was extremely impressed. It has been one of my biggest dreams to build a castle since I was a small child. One question: if money was no object, with current technology, what would be the average building time for a castle on relatively hilly land, at roughly 30-40,000 sq. ft.? Just curious.

Thanks!,

DW

duncan
Senior Member
posted 05-29-99 07:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for duncan   Click Here to Email duncan     Edit/Delete Message
One to two years depending on the weather and amount of workers. If your design is simple maybe a shorter time. Mine is fairly complex and I have had to expand the plans several times too meet my wifes and my buisness needs. Although money is a major facter on this project, we are keeping up with our time frame for compeletion date. You might keep this site informed about your dream, maybe some of us can help you along the way in makeing it come alive. Best of luck

DreamWarrior
Senior Member
posted 05-30-99 12:32 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for DreamWarrior   Click Here to Email DreamWarrior     Edit/Delete Message
Thanks, Duncan, for the info. As it turns out, money is an object for now. I have to let some things go through with business and bring in a little more revenue before I can start. I will probably start within 3-5 years. I am getting all kinds of ideas right now and just trying to design my castle for now, since it's free. I figure if I put as much detail into the design as I can, it will last me until I can afford to start on the actual thing.

DW

jsmith4973@aol.com
Member
posted 01-02-2001 08:48 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for jsmith4973@aol.com     Edit/Delete Message
You folks are impressive....

The most that I can hope for is to learn to drive the John Deere dozer by next summer, so that I can clear the site. Gotta be careful, though. Take only the trees that I absolutely must.

------------------
J.M. Smith

duncan
Senior Member
posted 01-02-2001 09:14 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for duncan   Click Here to Email duncan     Edit/Delete Message
When my wife and i started to build our project i would never have beleaved anyone if they had told me how much i was to learn. {and i'm still not that good with a back hoe}

------------------
Megan and Ralph
CASTLE DUNCAN

If you have built catles
in the air your work need
not be lost; that is where
they should be. Now put
foundations under them.
H.D.Thoreau

[This message has been edited by duncan (edited 01-12-2001).]

robinthehood
Member
posted 01-09-2001 10:15 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for robinthehood   Click Here to Email robinthehood     Edit/Delete Message
I am 30 years old. I am working on a plan to secure land on a mountaintop to build my castle. I have a plan drawn up already. I just completed building a wood frame house in 1999. I thought I knew a lot about building untill I started building my own home. I have learned a lot.

First of all, I want to build my castle to serve as a bed and breakfast for others who dream of the castle life.

My castle has a total of six towers, 30' in diameter and 40' tall. The round towers will be placed in the shape of a hexagon, with walls joining each of them. Each tower will have a flat roof looking like the rook of a chess set. As you enter the gate you will face the great room with deminsions of 60' by 100' The ceilings of this room will be at least 20' high with the master quarters above. I am going to scan my scetching in and will post it for all to see.

------------------
God bless
Robin Frazier

robinthehood
Member
posted 01-09-2001 10:18 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for robinthehood   Click Here to Email robinthehood     Edit/Delete Message
I forgot to ask my question.
In a modern castle. What type of material would be used on the ceiling?

------------------
God bless
Robin Frazier

duncan
Senior Member
posted 01-09-2001 11:08 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for duncan   Click Here to Email duncan     Edit/Delete Message
Hi Robin
Heres a few of the ceilings that are used today, paneled Wood, plaster over lath, Wall board, 2x6 or 2x4 T and G, or rock.


[This message has been edited by duncan (edited 01-12-2001).]

robinthehood
Member
posted 01-12-2001 10:23 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for robinthehood   Click Here to Email robinthehood     Edit/Delete Message
I was planning on using rough cut timbers, but the rock interests me. In what manner do you use rock on the ceiling? Are you talking large flat rock laying on cross timbers or what?

I have been thing of 8" x 16" blocks for my outside walls for insulation purposes, then covering them with rock. Is this common?


------------------
God bless
Robin Frazier

duncan
Senior Member
posted 01-12-2001 12:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for duncan   Click Here to Email duncan     Edit/Delete Message
I have heard of using slate layed on rafters.
But that was not in what most people think of as a castle.
What i had in mind was a rock arch for the ceiling as was used in many tower houses and castles.
Today maybe an arch riseing from the wall about 5 feet up and connecting to the ceiling about 3 or 4 feet in from the trim would give the effect of an arch of stone with out loseing space. Using a wood framework covered with wall board then "gem stone". {the only trade name i have for it} It's a fake rock that is glued in place or you can use morter. It's light weight, looks like any of 5 defferent types of real stone, and can be ordered for the job. It's very easy to work with and is used out doors or in.
Yes, covering the block with rock or brick is common. Plus the dead air space will provide an extra insulation factor and it will give the effect of a wide wall.

robinthehood
Member
posted 01-23-2001 10:12 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for robinthehood   Click Here to Email robinthehood     Edit/Delete Message
What does a castle bathroom look like? I guess it gives a whole new meaning to "the throne room".

duncan
Senior Member
posted 01-23-2001 10:33 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for duncan   Click Here to Email duncan     Edit/Delete Message
Most were chutes on an outer wall with a seat that covered the drop. Some were small rooms and some even had running water that flowed down the back of the wall. Many castles had internal chutes as well. This might explan alittle better and then again it might tell you more then you wanted to know, http://www.castlesontheweb.com/quest/Forum9/HTML/000150.html

------------------
Megan and Ralph
CASTLE DUNCAN

If you have built catles
in the air your work need
not be lost; that is where
they should be. Now put
foundations under them.
H.D.Thoreau

JCorboy
Member
posted 01-26-2001 03:39 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for JCorboy   Click Here to Email JCorboy     Edit/Delete Message
I am building a tower (7 ft diam and 25 ft high) and have discovered "Keystone" blocks, which are used for retaining walls. The "compact" ones weigh 95#, but are beautifully sculpted and look very medieval. They come with fiberglass shear pins, need not be mortared, but I think for a tall tower a solid-grouted rebar connecting system would be needed. Has anyone done anything like this?

duncan
Senior Member
posted 01-26-2001 04:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for duncan   Click Here to Email duncan     Edit/Delete Message
Please use caution. Not knowing for sure which of the keyed blocks you will be useing i suggest checking with the manufacture as to the recomended height limit. Some man made blocks are very brittle and will take almost no weight with out structural failure. A four {4} foot wall being over many of their limits.

JCorboy
Member
posted 01-28-2001 02:30 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for JCorboy   Click Here to Email JCorboy     Edit/Delete Message
Thanks, guys. Never heard of the N-type cement, so will get right on this. The Keystone "compact" blocks are 8"h, 12"deep, and 18"w, weigh 95 lbs. See them and their fiberglass pins at www.keystonewalls.com.
The mfr sees no crush problem with walls of 50 courses high (about 33+ ft), but shear is their concern. That's why the #5 rebar. By the time this project is done (I"m allowing a year), I should be an expert, and happy to pass along info to others. I really believe this is ideal castle material, especially since the blocks look so fine and don't require individual mortaring. Aloha, JC

duncan
Senior Member
posted 01-29-2001 05:56 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for duncan   Click Here to Email duncan     Edit/Delete Message
I think there may have been a typo in Savoys last posting when he recomended the N mortar instead of the S type. The S will aid your walls shear strength better then the N and both mixes are very similar makeing it easy for a mistake to accure.

Type N: Mortar is for general use above grade and for severe exposure to the elements. It has a 28 day compression strength of between 800-1200 psi that depends on the amount of water used.
For Portland Mortar use;
1 portland, 1 hydrated lime, 6 sand
For Masonry mix;
1 masonry mix, 3 sand

Type S: Mortar has a high resistance to sideways or lateral stress. It has also a 28 day compression strength but is much higher
being from 2100-2800 psi again depending on the amount of water used.
For Portland use;
1 portland, 1\2 hydrated lime, 4.5 sand
For masonry mix;
1\2 portland, 1 masonry, 4.5 sand

Best wishes on your project.

------------------
Megan and Ralph
CASTLE DUNCAN

If you have built catles
in the air your work need
not be lost; that is where
they should be. Now put
foundations under them.
H.D.Thoreau

AJR
Senior Member
posted 01-29-2001 08:51 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for AJR     Edit/Delete Message
I see duncan from your signature that you are now producing beef out of thin air (catles in the air !!) Interesting.

duncan
Senior Member
posted 01-29-2001 09:36 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for duncan   Click Here to Email duncan     Edit/Delete Message
Beef out of thin air? Not here, but they do grow and get fat on the hay as do the sheep and other animals. For the most part the 'castles' in this forum start as a dream and with hard work become a reailty over time.
The beef after its cooked just seems to go missing for some reason.

wurdsmiff
unregistered
posted 01-29-2001 04:02 PM           Edit/Delete Message
Interesting stuff guys.
I'm no construction expert,so I'm sure you'll forgive some inquisitiveness, and ill-educated point making.
Surely if portland cement has such a short life span, some sort of construction which does not involve weakening pure lime by corrupting it with Portland would be a better option.
It seems to my non-expert eye that if there is a need to strengthen these blocks for whatever reason that there is an inherant weakness in their use for this type of project, and a more suitable material should be sought.
The relative strengths of the different types are interesting enough, but what effect does that have when they are combined with the blocks? If this project comes to reality, then it will be a real thing with real dangers. The theoretical merits of proposed infill with concrete may mean nothing unless the system is tested to reveal unforeseen problems. For instance; is there the possibility of any reaction between the material of the block and the mortar which could weaken the structure. Has this system with these particular materials been tried?

------------------
Demeure par la verite
Visit my web-site at
www.castlesontheweb.com/members/wurdsmiff/castles.htm

Gordon.


Savoy
Senior Member
posted 01-29-2001 06:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Savoy   Click Here to Email Savoy     Edit/Delete Message
I made an assumption that this block was a kind of masonry material. If this is so, infilling with cement/lime concrete will add strength, but not too much. Flexibility is crucial here.

Asking the manufacturer would be an excellent idea if there is a concern with this process. The danger would be if the fill is stronger than the block which supports it. This would eventually lead to failure of the block.

It is essential that the fill be softer than the block. This would provide support
and strength without endangering the original material.

[This message has been edited by Savoy (edited 01-30-2001).]

Philip Davis
unregistered
posted 01-30-2001 12:52 AM           Edit/Delete Message
Does anyone know about Roman cement. I know this was not a simple lime mortar but a proper cement but was it used as an infill and 'bonding' agent for rocks and bricks and if so how have these structures stood up or was it used just as the primary building agent (as in modern concrete buildings) and, if so, was it reinforced and with what?

wurdsmiff
unregistered
posted 01-30-2001 03:58 AM           Edit/Delete Message
I remain concerned that there still seems to be a recommendation that infill be used in what may be an untested system. The advice here to ask the manufacturers seems sound, but since the product appears to be designed for landscaping purposes, and for use in retaining walls, eg holding back soil banks etc, I have to question it's suitability for housing/project construction, even with infill. The manufacturers may not have intended the product for these purposes, since it is clearly designed to withstand sideways forces as a retaining wall. They must be asked for advice if consideration is being given to use of the product for a purpose for which it may not have been designed.

------------------
Demeure par la verite
Visit my web-site at
www.castlesontheweb.com/members/wurdsmiff/castles.htm

Gordon.


Savoy
Senior Member
posted 01-30-2001 08:46 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Savoy   Click Here to Email Savoy     Edit/Delete Message
Gordon,

Sound advice.

Philip,

Roman cement is actually a very strong "eminently hydraulic lime". It behaves much the same as Portland cement with certain differences. Roman cement has a crushing strength of 1500 psi. Compare this to the strength of pure fat lime mortar at about 60 psi.

Limes become "hydraulic" when they attain the ability to set in wet conditions. Natural hydraulic limes have this ability due to the content of active clays in the limestone which makes them. These clay-bearing limestones,when fired in the kiln become hydraulic limes. The true hydraulic limes have a clay content between 5% and 36%. When the clay content exceeds these values, the resulting burned lime becomes a "Roman cement". Roman cements have a clay content of between 37% and 55%.

Hydraulic limes are easy to use as they set in wet conditions and do not require the amount of babying that pure limes do when used. So what's the down side of these limes? They tend to be treated like Portland cement by inexperienced users when they do contain a large amount of pure lime. There have been many failures due to improper usage. The other problems are salt and hardness. As hydraulic property increases, so do soluble salts and hardness, both of which can be harmful to walls.

To put this in perspective, pure lime has virtually no salt and has a crushing strength of 60 psi. Eminently hydraulic lime has a C/S of about 900 psi. Roman cement comes in at 1500psi. As these values increase, so do the levels of soluble salts they contain. Now for the finale...Portland cement has a crushing strength of 4100psi and is loaded with salts.

Now, to finish your question. The Pantheon in Rome is built primarily with lime concrete. This is Roman cement. As you can see, it has withstood the test of time marvelously.

[This message has been edited by Savoy (edited 01-30-2001).]

JCorboy
Member
posted 02-05-2001 02:42 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for JCorboy   Click Here to Email JCorboy     Edit/Delete Message
Hi, guys. Thanks for all the interesting techno info. (I think I know more about cement than I wanted to know!) For the record, my local contact says that "Supermortar" (US commercial product) is close to the Type N formula. And, of course, readily accessible. Dug the hole this weekend for the 200 cubic ft (7.5 cu. yards)foundation, which will be full of rebar. Blocks arriving next, as well as the 20 ft steel spiral staircase. Good fun! Aloha, JC

------------------

teach
Member
posted 02-07-2001 06:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for teach   Click Here to Email teach     Edit/Delete Message
What a wonderful web site. I teach pre-k/k and am beginning my fairy tale unit. I asked my children what they wanted to know about the most...of course, castles and how to build them. If there are any ideas for me or pics you could send, the kids would love it. Thanks!

duncan
Senior Member
posted 02-08-2001 06:27 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for duncan   Click Here to Email duncan     Edit/Delete Message
Have a look at the School projects, model makeing, and Gen. dis. forums for many good ideas. Far more then i can give links for. Building blocks and this forum can give an insight to what building a castle was like and how it is being done today.
You also might check into the links at the bottem of the page for web sites that have pictures of their projects.
Let the site know if we can help you.

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